How to get through the airports in Egypt without (much) hassle - ARRIVALS
Recently, there’s been quite a bit of chatter on social media about Eyptian airports, specifically in Cairo, and while it is by no means the usual order of operations from an American perspective, it is not that unusual when traveling this region of the world. Still, for those first-timers that are ready to venture out, some of this may come as a surprise, so I thought I would provide a little heads up for what you should expect.
First note, all of these things seem to fit in with the general vibe of Egypt from additional security to people offering their services in exchange for a tip. The longer you stay in Egypt, the more get used to this , but of course, when you first arrive, this may seem a bit odd or off-putting.
Second, these protocols range true for all my arrivals and departures in Cairo, Aswan and Luxor airports. I have yet to visit the Red Sea area, but assume you can expect the same at any airport in Egypt. As long as you are aware of the following, you will be just fine!
#1 Porters, porters, and more porters!
Whether coming or going, the first thing you will probably encounter is the porters... They seem to be everywhere. There are a lot of comments about porters around the airports taking advantage of tourists. In reality, this is a normal way of Egyptian life, with large families hauling a multitude of things that rea happy to use a porter’s services, so please understand that it is standard practice, but also, where there is tourism (and you have just arrived at one of the most visited sites for tourists throughout all of history!), there will be people trying to make money off of it.
The porters will pop up upon arrival or departure - they seem to be everywhere. A porter is someone that offers to carry your bags for you and expects a tip. Please read that statement again. A porter is someone who OFFERS to carry your bags for you. You DO NOT need to accept this offer. Porters usually arrive with a cart and will start putting your bags onto the cart, oftentimes without asking you. You allowing them to do this is also your acceptance of their service and the a tip (or 'bakshish') is expected when they have finished helping you. Sometimes, they will go through multiple checkpoints with you, so if you think you just weren't quick enough in declining and can shake them at the first top - you may be in for a surprise! The best way to decline the services of an assertive porter (like any other assertive salesperson in Egypt) is to be very direct in telling them ‘no’. Just look them in the eye and say 'no, thank you' or 'la shukran' (you better get used to saying this in Arabic as you’re going to need to say it a LOT!) There is no need to yell or get upset with porters, just be very direct if you are declining their services. You may need to go so far as to remove your own bags from their cart..
As mentioned, I noticed plenty of seemingly more local families traveling to and from Cairo with a TON of luggage and these families were happy to tip a porter to have the convenience of carrying the luggage. This is normal way of life in Egypt and it is not just a service or scam directed towards tourists... it is assumed that anyone with a lot of luggage would like help because (as you will see), navigating the airport and security checks is quite a trial on its own without worrying about all your luggage! Remember that opening scene in Titanic where the rich crowd is paying to have someone get multiple carloads of luggage onboard? Just channel your inner Kate Winslet and go with the flow if you have big bags... But, PLEASE respect the porters and make sure you have some cash to tip them in the end ($1 USD or 50 EGP per bag would be appropriate).
During my visit, I traveled with a simple school-sized backpack and international carryon roller... every time I got out of a taxi, a porter could be counted on to start pulling my carryon out of the trunk before I was finished paying the driver. I would politely take my roller off the cart (I always keep my backpack with technology and valuables in the seat of the taxi with me, so all they could grab was the roller). I would say 'lah shukran' and they would look up at me as a western woman without very little luggage and say 'that's all you have?" When I said yes, they would shrug in agreement that their services really weren't necessary and off to the next customer they went... There is not fighting or angry words, it’s just a service you are willing to pay for or not – no need to get too excited about it.
It is worth noting that some of the frustration from tourists may come from certain porters dressed in red vests that look more like airport staff than freelancers... make no mistake – they are all the same … just remember NOTHING IS FREE IN EGYPT so do not expect additional help without a tip. And don’t forget, you can always refuse the help and walk away.
#2 Visas
At the time of this post, U.S. Citizens are required to purchase a tourist visa upon arrival. Citizens of other countries should check with their government and U.S. Citizens should continue to check with the travel.state.gov for the most up-to-date info. Many people have attempted an electronic (evisa) prior to arrival, but to by honest, there seem to be complications and the puchase of the visa is VERY easy and streamlined when you arrive.
Egypt is one of the most convenient countries for getting a travel visa if you are a US citizen (I believe the rules are the same for most Europeans, but don’t want to provide improper guidance, so always advise readers to look up their requirement on your home government’s website).
You do not need to do anything beforehand to get a tourist visa for Egypt (aside from having a valid passport, which will be required anyway). At this time of this post, the 30-day tourist visa costs $25 USD and it is best paid in US cash... It is easiest to pay in USD (so make sure you bring a stash…) after a long overnight flight - I like to have this sort of thing separated out in an envelope labele visa for my own ease with the process. You could pay by EGP or by card, but I noted to the line for the credit payments was much longer than the line for cash. Welcome to a world where cash is still king, or should we say Pharaoh? (For more on which currency to use in Egypt, click here). The visa line is pretty obvious, but if you do not notice it right away, just know that before you get in the long, winding immigration line, you will need a visa, so look up and look around - you’ll see the desk soon enough. Once you receive the visa sticker (as shown here), don’t do anything with it – just take it in your hand with your passport directly to the immigration line which will be the next place you stop. If you arriving late at night or early in the morning, you might be surprised at how quickly this process goes, but be prepared for long lines at peak season (i.e. use the restrooms beforehand if you need to…)Hand your visa sticker and your passport to the immigration officer and they will do the rest.
#2 Technology and other items for customs – what can you actually bring into the country?
As I mentioned, you will notice the same themes from the airport security echo through your visit in Egypt. As Americans, we are used to traveling with anything and everything we so choose… but that is not always the case around the world. These days, there is a lot of attention on social media regarding what you are allowed to film, etc. And I’m sorry to say that most influencers are just flat wrong on this subject. And it’s also a good time to remember that just because you see someone else doing it, does not mean that you can too (they may have additional permits, etc.)
Lately a lot of influences have been upset with their intercations at customs. (To review - immigration is where you get your passport stamped, customs is where your bags and possessions are checked). Many people have been stopped for having too much media equipment and or technology. There are customs rules that apply for technology and how much you can bring in. One can assume that most of these revolve around trying to sell new devices on the black market (i.e. having an unusual amounf of cell phones or laptops - you can probably get by with two of each as many people have a work and personal device).
But… some of the rules also exist for security reasons within the government. The security issues are a very area, some people are stopped for simply have a lavalier-style mic…. these can be perceived as commuication devices (think walkie-talkies). Generally, having one set is not a problem, but if you have multiple sets or large cases of equipment, you can expect to be stopped and questioned. (Take it from the girl who was recently stopped by customs in Ethiopia for accidentally bringing in binoculars after safari in Kenya… you want to avoid a discussion with customs as much as possible…) As a traveler who does minimal vlogging, I have not had issue, but the more technology you bring, the higher the chance of being stopped will be. Also, please note that a lot of these influencers thought they had an Egyptian contact who had secured the commerical permits for fiming… maybe it was and maybe it wasn’t… but assuming you know an Egyptian that hast that kind of clout with the government is like assuming a random person on the street the approached you in downtown and certified 5-start Egyptologist and tour guide… very unlikely.
Regarding technology, it’s also important to understand recent history (did you know that Egypt had two revolutions between 2011 and 2013?) . I won’t get into all of that here, you can look it up, but generally speaking, filming any sort of government facility or government personnel, security, military, etc. is a big no-no. Oh, and by the way, anyone thinking that because you are a US citizen, you have all the rights that you have as a US citizen in Egypt might be shocked to know that this is not the case (and not all countries have the same rights, freedoms of expression, etc.) So, if you want to know more about the actual rules, you can click here U.S. Dept of State - Egypt - Local Laws and Special Circumstances. It’s always good to check a few time before you trip, as the information can change. I highly recommend reviewing the travel.state.gov details for any country you visit, regardless of if you are a U.S. Citizen - these websites are kept up-to-date and will provide much more accurate information than a stranger on the internet… (but please keep reading my blog! haha).
Here are some of the basics:
Drones are absolutely NOT ALLOWED – if you try to bring a drone into the country, you can expect extensive discussions with security and government officials
Given the strict rules on media/surveillance, the less technology you bring, the better. This is a pretty gray area (there was some mention of it on my boarding information from the airline, but not on any government sites) - no one is going to question the usual laptop, tablet, cell phone, etc., but if you bring:
a whole media team with multiple devices for each person and lots of ‘tech bags’, you can expect to be questioned.
Specifically, larger video cameras or microphones with sponge-heads/windcovers are also questionable and up for discussion with security
No illegal drugs are allowed of any kind (and yes, I spoke to someone currently working in the U.S. Embassy in Cairo that explained this was the number one violation and reason that people go to prison in Egypt... and yes, we are talking Egyptian prison, not getting sent home to your country– DON’T DO IT!)
Like most countries, seeds and agricultural products are not allowed – this can also be quite nebelous, but includes food, so just make sure to finish any snacks you have or toss them in the trash after you get off the plane and before you go through customs.
No ancient artifacts can be taken out of Egypt
Currency - the limits of currency are quite high (greater than $10,000 USD is not allowed), so you can bring cashto exchange, but, in my opinion, it is always easiest (and almost always cheapest) to just use an ATM upon arrival.
#4 ATMs
Speaking of cash... I typically recommend just ordering some cash ahead of time from your bank when visiting countries in Africa... it’s nice to just know you have some when you arrive... but... this is not possible with EGP. You cannot order it ahead of time. Therefore you have two options which are to exchange a major currency (USD, Euro, GBP) or use an ATM. I always opt for an ATM (and here’s why). There are ATMs in the airport; however, they can be tricky - sometimes they are out of money, or oftentimes you can only withdraw a limited amount of money.
During my 2 week stay, the maximum I was able to withdraw at any given time was $80 USD. This will sound very odd to people from the States, but this is not a general limit on the ATM or my bank account, it was just based on how much money was in the ATM at a given time. So, if the ATM says it cannot do that transaction, retry with a lower amount... Luckily - $80 will go a very long way, so the maximum really is within the norm of Egyptian spending. You may need to try multiple ATMs before you are successful with a withdraw... and if you arrive in Terminal 3 (the newest terminal) and have no luck at the ATMs (which is what happened to me) – you can always head across the indoor walking bridge Le Meridien and try their ATM machines. (Just a reminder that I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this hotel for one-night stays or just catching your breath after a long flight with various restaurants to choose from – see more here).